Do You Want to Replace Your Kitchen Cabinets?

The kitchen is a busy hub in many homes. The look and feel of the kitchen is greatly affected by the appearance of the cabinets. If you're thinking about a complete makeover of your kitchen and rearranging the layout, then you will probably want to go with new cabinets. Another route that you may want to consider are the options available to revitalize and transform your kitchen with a more economical approach. I would like to offer some suggestions for you to consider before making this very important decision.

Tearing out and replacing cabinets will be expensive, but sometimes it's the best way to go if you're going to change the layout for instance or if you want to go with a completely different cabinet material for a desired look. An example of this would be that you have wooden cabinets and you would rather have metal cabinet theme to match a more modern theme. What ever the reason might be, if you do decide to replace your cabinets, there are at least a couple of ways to go. The most expensive will be to have your cabinets custom-built by a reputable cabinet shop. This route will give the most flexible options as far different colors, textures, hardware, personal design preferences, and of course materials. Another option that can produce satisfactory results, if you're not too concerned about custom designing input, but rather trend styles, designs, and industry standards in cabinetry, is the pre-manufactured type. You can find these at most building supply retailers, especially the big chain retailers. You will have a pretty good variety of cabinet styles and hardware that can be installed by the retailer usually much quicker than having the cabinets custom-built and installed, plus the cost is significantly less.

If you don't absolutely have to have new cabinets, a cabinet facelift can do wonders to make a drastic change to the appearance of your kitchen. Some of the ways this can be achieved is by refacing or painting. Refacing can be as simple as replacing existing doors and hardware, or applying veneer to the cabinets and then replacing the doors and hardware. For instance, if your kitchen appears dark and/or small, light-colored or glass doors can give your kitchen a more open feel and appearance. If you don't like the notion of the cabinet contents being exposed by glass, there is the option of frosted glass. Refacing can save a substantial amount of money and completely change the appearance of your cabinets.

Painting is another way to drastically change the appearance of your cabinets and is probably more cost-effective than refacing. A good oil based paint will cure faster and be harder than the more user-friendly latex paint. But the trick is to prepare the project adequately and apply several thin quality coats, instead of one or two thick coats. A good paint job and replacing the hardware will do wonders in giving your kitchen an exciting new look.

In making your final decision, I would suggest that you look at pictures, showrooms, and even other kitchens and weigh all the options. Installing new cabinets will be the most costly, whether you go with custom or pre-made. Sometimes you can get a new kitchen feel by doing a facelift that will revitalize your kitchen and save a lot of money and time. As with all home remodeling it will pay you in the long run to do your homework before making such an important change to your home.

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Get Great Results Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Kitchen cabinets are subject to more wear than most furniture in the home. The assault of messy fingers and hands, the constant opening and closing of the doors and drawers, and the exposure to the cooking residue in the air will take a toll over time. The result is significant wear and a worn look that can take away from the overall appearance of the kitchen. A good paint job can bring new life to your kitchen’s atmosphere and save you a ton of money verses the cost of cabinet replacement. The savings can be significant if you are willing to tackle this project yourself. Great results will be achieved by following the fundamentals for successful paint application.

Preparation

The most important step in all projects is preparation. This is especially true in painting projects. The desired result cannot be achieved if the preparation isn’t done correctly. Painting will not “fix” broken, sagging and dented objects. So it is important to prepare and if need be, repair the surfaces to be painted.

The first step is to remove all hard ware including hooks, knobs, hinges and anything that is not going to be painted from the cabinet boxes, doors and drawers. You should clean them well using an all purpose cleaner/degreaser with a rag and let them dry thoroughly. If there are any loose parts in the surfaces to be painted they will have to re-set, for example if a drawer front is loose, a simple tightening of a couple of screws may be all it takes to secure the front to the box. Or, if you have a sagging shelve because of a loose support or not enough support, this will have to be taken care of before you paint and reassemble. I won’t go into much detail about cabinet repair in this article. (If there is extensive repair needed you might be advised to replace the cabinets.)

For dents and deeper scratches, you should apply some wood putty with a putty knife to the damaged area and smooth it down to a sandable height, being careful to not scrape in down too much. (If it is too flat or flush, it may leave an indention after drying.) After the putty has dried, sand it down with fine grit sandpaper.

Sanding

When the doors and drawers have been removed, and the hardware removed from them, it’s best to place them on a flat surface such as a table, work bench, or I find it works well to place a long board, such as a 2x12, between 2 sawbucks and line the doors or drawers down the board. This next part is a little labor intensive, or tedious, but very important to insure a good result. Use a fine grit sandpaper and rough up all the surfaces to be painted. That goes for the cabinet box faces, sides, and inside edges of the faces.(That is the smaller visible edge just inside the face going toward the inside of the cabinet) This sanding step will allow the primer or the paint to adhere much better and reduce chipping, flaking and peeling in the future. You don’t have to sand really hard, just rough it up a bit, covering the entire surface thoroughly.

Applying the Primer

If the cabinets were painted and you’re just repainting you can skip this step. Applying primer is a must because it will cause the paint to adhere better to the surface making the paint less susceptible to chips and peeling. If you’re painting over stained wood, or sealed wood (such as polyurethane) the color is likely to “bleed” through, and the paint is tends to not stick to these types of surfaces.

If you are going to use a latex based paint, then a shellac base primer should be used. If you will be using an oil-based paint, the best primer will be an oil-based interior type. When applying primer it is best to do so when the work area can be properly ventilated. An open door or large window with a strong fan pulling the vapors out would be best.

Now It’s Time to Paint

At this point, after the repairs, sanding and priming the doors, drawer faces and cabinets might not be very pretty, but rest assured that you have made a good foundation for your paint that will bring satisfaction with the final result.

The key to applying the paint is to apply 2 or more thin coats. This will result in a smoother and more durable finish. It’s tempting to go with one thick coat at this time because of the urge to hurry and finish after all the work you’ve put in so far, but you will be more pleased with the outcome if you’ll be a little more patient here at the end.

A smoother, more glossy coat will be achieved with a pneumatic spray gun, but not-to- worry if you don’t have access to one because great results can still be achieved with a good quality 2 ½ “ to 3” brush. Again, the secret is to apply more than 1 thin coat. After the 1st coat has dried, use some 400 grits sanding paper to smooth out any blemishes or rough spots. You are not trying to remove paint, but just insuring the smoothest surface possible for the next coat. In applying the coats, naturally you want to avoid runs or drops in the finish, but if you accidently have any, you can let the paint dry thoroughly and lightly smooth it out with the 400 grit paper. Usually 2 coats will do unless you have a coarse grained wood to cover.

Inspect to make sure all edges are covered and smooth. Don’t forget those inside edges of the cabinet face. This will give your paint job a much more pleasing and professionally finished look. Install the hardware, drawers and doors, and enjoy your bright, revitalized kitchen. You will feel satisfaction and pride in the new look and new feel of the kitchen and not to mention the fact that you’ve saved thousands of dollars in replacement cost.

Is Bamboo Flooring a Viable Alternative to Traditional Hardwood?

In recent years hardwood floors have experienced a rapid growth in popularity. Hardwood floors are now the choice of many for new construction and also in remodeling. One of the newer types of hardwood flooring that has been making quite a name for itself in the marketplace is bamboo. One the main selling points of Bamboo Flooring is that it is “green”, as in good for the environment. Let’s take a look at some of the interesting aspects of this popular choice of flooring alternatives.

Something that needs to be stated right up front is that Bamboo Flooring is not wood in the typical sense of the word. It is actually a grass that is processed basically by being cut into strips, boiled to remove decay, starch and pests (sometimes soaked in Borax), carbonized for coloring, kiln dried, , and assembled with gluing compound and sometimes fillers, then milled into different type planks. The hardness of the Bamboo Flooring is about medium and stands up relatively well to normal traffic and wear. It ranks a 1642 on the Janka Hardness Scale compared to Douglas Fir at 660 and the ever so expensive Brazilian Walnut at 3800.

I would like to make a point at this time about the issue of formaldehyde being used in the manufacturing process. In my opinion there is apparently little danger involved with this issue. The amount of formaldehyde gassing emissions from installed Bamboo Flooring is reported to be less than the percentage of naturally occurring amounts in the atmosphere. If you feel that it is a serious concern or don’t feel easy about it at all, there are manufactures that guarantee their bamboo products do not use any formaldehyde in the manufacturing process.

As far as the “green” goes, it is more ecologically friendly in the sense that the bamboo crops renew in about 5 yrs. as compared to the decades that hardwood trees need to mature. But it’s not perfect. For instance, sometimes hardwood stands are cleared away for bamboo farming. Still, consider how many trees would be lost to traditional harvesting if the bamboo farms weren’t producing alternative wood products.

Like traditional hardwood flooring, there are different installation options. Nail Down - the standard tongue and groove flooring planks and the planks are nailed or more common today, stapled down to the sub-floor. Floating – panels of wood are locked together on top of a foam underlayment without the use of nails (staples) or glue. Glue Down – strips or panels are locked together and glued to the sub-floor for stability. Each of these methods has their own pros and cons to be considered.

One of the more important aspects of Bamboo Flooring is the cost. It is approximately in the same range as red oak, making it a bit more cost effective compared to most traditional hardwoods. You will usually find it ranging roughly between $1.99 to $4.50 psf (per square foot). Traditional hardwood will usually cost roughly $3.50 to $15.00 psf. Of course these figures depend on individual retailers, discount warehouses, local mills, or where ever you might find these products for sale. It is very wise to shop around for prices and quality. One way to save on the cost is to purchase unfinished flooring, but the cost of finishing and the inconvenience might not be worth it. Do some research to find what would be best for your particular situation.

Bamboo Flooring offers a durable, attractive and cost-effective solution for your home’s flooring needs. It will project the same warm, inviting and aesthetic quality to a room like the traditional hardwoods but is usually less expensive and probably better for the environment making it more and more the popular choice. So I think it is safe to say that Bamboo Flooring is definitely a viable, if not the preferable alternative to hardwood.

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Should You Refinish That Old Bathtub Or Get a New One

A lot of factors come into play in making this decision. It depends mostly on your particular circumstances. The cost and aggravation could be more either way, depending on several factors involved in each case scenario. Let's take a look at some of the things to consider.One of the first things in determining the course to take is deciding if you really want to keep the existing tub? If it is an old antique, like a clawfoot for instance, the sentimental value or the preference for antiques will probably be reason enough for refinishing. But if you're just weighing the difference in cost and time there are other things to consider.

How the tub is situated in the bathroom will determine how much time and money it will take to either replace or refinish. You have to estimate the amount of damage that will occur if you want to replace. How much of the work can you do yourself? What will have to be done by a professional in regard to the tear-out and installing the new tub? The cost of the new tub, the cost of the contractor, material disposal, and any other material cost will have to be added up and compared against the cost of refinishing.

There are differing opinions about the cost involved with refinishing verses replacing. But again, it all depends on the individual case. For example; if the tub is located in a way that it can be detached and taken outside with very little or no damage to the walls, floor, doors or any other fixtures, then it will most likely be less expensive than refinishing. If there will be walls to tear out or repair, or door frames to open up and put back, or tiles to replace, then all this must be taken into account.

In the case of refinishing, doing it yourself or hiring a professional will affect the cost. Cost of products, labor, and rental equipment are a few of the expenses that will affect the overall coast of either route you take. It is strongly advised that if you go with a professional, you do some research on not only the credentials of the professional refinisher, but also the type of products they use in their process. Usually cheaper methods in refinishing will produce less desirable results. Do your homework and become knowledgeable about the products and steps involved in a quality refinishing job.

Refinishing a bathtub or porcelain sink is not one of the easiest do it yourself projects. It can be done if you have a certain amount of skill, but the average homeowner might be biting off more than they can chew, so to speak. As with hiring a pro, you need to research the methods and products that produce the best results. Regardless of who does the job, it is important that each step is successfully executed or the end result will be greatly affected. It is also very important that the primer and layers of enamel are applied evenly and in thin coats. Using a spray gun will produce a much nicer finish than application with a brush.

Those are a few tips to get you started in the right direction, but as I said at the beginning, each situation is different. You will have to study your particular situation, gather information, compare cost and decide what is best for you.



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5 Great Tips for Managing Remodeling Contractors in Your Home

After the specifics of the actual project are clearly defined, a very important aspect of the project planning should be addressed to benefit both you and the ones performing the work in your home. Misunderstandings in this area can cause avoidable problems and tensions for everyone concerned. The workers need to perform efficiently without unreasonable restrictions on their activity, but the homeowner is entitled to a certain amount of respect in regard to disruption of normal in-home activities. So it is wise to set some ground rules from the start.

1. The hours that work is to be performed should be defined before the project begins. Most contractors prefer to get an early start but if you need to set a start time a little different than their usual schedule this has to be agreed upon from the beginning. And just as importantly, a cut-off time should be agreed upon. Some contractors will work long hours to complete a project in less days.

2. Another important point is whether you want anyone working in your home when your not there. Sometimes this can't be avoided because of your work schedule or activities that can't be postponed. If this is the case be clear about the areas in your home where the workers are allowed or not allowed.

3. Children should be kept out of work area for their safety and also as to not interfere with the workers concentration and performance. Before the work begins, explain to the child, or children, what is going to be happening and what areas of the house are off limits to them. They will be naturally curious, but their safety is your main concern here.

4. If there are pets present, their safety is your responsibility. You should secure them in an area away from the activity and let the workers know where they are to avoid any unwanted surprises such as Fido getting out and running off or being hurt.

5. It's a good idea to keep an eye on the progress of the project, but you don't want to be in the way too much. If you have questions or concerns about anything you should ask, but you don't want to over do it. If you feel something isn't right or just looks wrong, by all means speak up. A good contractor will understand your concerns, but questioning every move they make will cause tension and you may be labeled as a problem customer. There are some that might say "So what, it's my house and I have the right to know." Well, you certainly do, but whether it's right or wrong, I have personally seen instances where workers lose the desire to make that extra effort for quality because of being too annoyed by the customer. Perhaps the main thing to keep in mind is to be polite, but not too timid about your concerns. As in any business relationship, showing respect and courtesy for the other party goes a long way.

In closing I want to suggest that you do a thorough inspection of the finished product, so to speak. You should have the desired results in the areas of function and appearance. If there are any problems, they should be addressed right away. If you wait, you may find it hard to have them resolved. Once a contractor moves on to the next job, it can sometimes be hard to get them back anytime soon.



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Consider the Benefits of Basement Renovation

If you are one of many homeowners that want more living space, before deciding to do an "add-on", you may want to consider the basement. Sometimes it is more cost effective. Less trauma to the existing yard, removal of moisture threats to foundation, sub-floors and joists, plus improved heating/cooling efficiency, are some of the benefits of basement remodeling. On the other hand, a basement remodeling job gone wrong can be a nightmare, but with the proper planning the chances of success are practically guaranteed.

Before you commit to the project

There are a few things to consider before committing to basement renovation. Will you have adequate head room? Not all basements were built with standard or high ceiling space. If you will need water drain lines, how will that be addressed? If there are heat ducts, plumbing lines, electrical lines, or support posts, will you be able to integrate these into the plan to your satisfaction? Most of these obstacles are not a problem for an experienced remodeling contractor. But not just any contractor will do, you must find one that is an expert in this area.

Formulating a plan

Even the smallest of projects has a better chance of success with a good plan. Decide what you want to do with the extra space before you ever start. A renovated basement can be used for many things, so consider all the options that might come into play later. For example, this extra room can be great for a family recreation room, but later you might want to convert it into an office, or even a small separate apartment. So you should consider whether to install small bath area and perhaps a kitchenette. But try to look ahead to the possible changes that you might want to make and try to plan for them now. It can save you headaches and money later. You should also consider how much of the work can you do yourself that could knock some the cost off. In some areas of the project, such as foundation/structure issues, wiring, waterproofing, and perhaps advanced plumbing situations, unless you are experienced it is best to leave it to a pro.

Waterproofing

Since basements are prone to moisture, waterproofing is an important element to the overall success of basement renovation. You will avoid future problems and repairs if you are diligent in taking care of this issue at the beginning of the project. Don't take shortcuts or temporary measures at this stage of the project. Consult with a professional and do it right so you will not have to deal with it again later.

Remember that good planning will ensure successful results and a nice space that you and your family will enjoy for years to come.



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How to Replace a Faulty Receptacle

The electrical circuit receptacle, also called wall plug or outlet, is the direct interface between your appliances, lamps, home technology equipment, power tools, or any devise that uses electricity, and the electrical wiring in you home. Faulty receptacles aren’t just an annoying inconvenience; they are a serious safety hazard.

If you have basic handyman skills, replacing a receptacle can be done safely and quickly. This task can be daunting to the average homeowner but needn’t be if basic safety procedures are observed. The key is to do it systematically and safely.

There are usually three types of receptacles in most homes. The most common is the 120 volt duplex type. These are standard outlets having two places to plug in; each place having two slots and a grounding hole, that are connected to the homes 120 volt circuit. Another type found in many homes is the GFCI receptacle, which is a variation of the duplex type, and is used in kitchens, bathes, outdoors or anywhere that electrical shock is a serious hazard. These two types have a hot wire (black) and a common wire (white), plus a ground wire (green). Appliances such as stove tops, clothes dryers and air-conditioners usually require a 240 volt receptacle. This type of receptacle has two hot wires (red and black) and a ground wire. I suggest using an electrician for this type unless you are well versed on electrical procedures and safety.

The first step will be determining if the receptacle is indeed faulty. First, check the breaker (or fuse) in the panel box. If the breaker has tripped or the fuse has blown, reset breaker (replace fuse). (Be aware that the tripped breaker was probably caused by a defective device plugged into the circuit or a defective receptacle although sometimes a breaker is tripped when there are too many devises being used on that particular circuit causing and overload.) A volt meter can be inserted into the slots of the suspect receptacle to check for voltage. Or a test can be done by simply plugging in another devise such as a lamp or some other small devise that you are sure is working while plugged into another receptacle. You also want to be sure that the receptacle isn’t controlled by a switch on the wall somewhere. Receptacles that have either one of the plug-ins or both controlled by a light switch are pretty common, especially in newer homes.

At this point, if it has been determined that the problem isn’t with the device plugged into the receptacle, or a switch turning off the receptacle, it’s time to remove the receptacle. Be sure to switch off the breaker (or remove fuse) to cut power off to the receptacle before continuing. Remove the cover plate and screws securing the receptacle to the outlet box. It is recommended that you use a volt meter to ensure there is no voltage running to the receptacle at this point. Just touch the leads of the meter to the connector screws on each side of the receptacle. If voltage is still present then the wrong circuit breaker was switched off. Once you’re sure the power is off to the outlet, pull the receptacle out of the box.

Examine the receptacle to determine if there are any loose wires. If there is a loose wire, secure it back in place, turn the breaker back on and re-test. If there are no loose wires or the test failed, the next step will be to disconnect the receptacle. If the wires are plugged into the back, use a small slotted screw driver or similar object that can be inserted into the small opening beside the wire plug on the back of the receptacle. This will release the wire from the receptacle. If the wires are connected with the side terminal screws, loosen screws and remove wires. Attach the wires to the replacement receptacle. The black wire will go to the brass colored terminal (which is for the wider slot in the plug-in place on the face) and the white wire will be attached to the silver colored terminal of the receptacle. Now attach the green wire to the ground terminal on the end of the receptacle. Insure that the connections are tight. This is very important because a loose connection can cause an arc that in turn can be a fire hazard. Secure the receptacle to the box with the screws and put the cover plate back over the receptacle.

At this point, it’s time to turn the breaker back on (or put fuse back in place) and test the receptacle with the meter or an electrical devise. If you followed these steps correctly the new receptacle should operate properly. If the new receptacle doesn’t work or trips the breaker, I suggest calling an electrician at this point because the problem is not likely to be the receptacle but a more serious problem in the wiring circuit.



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Decks - Wood Verses Composite

This situation has changed quite a bit in the past decade or so. If you are considering installing or having an outdoor deck installed, there are some very important factors to consider. My opinion has changed considerably since I built my first deck many years ago. At that time the general consensus was wood was king. You just couldn't beat the texture, smell, warmth of real wood. That is still true to a degree, but not so much today.. Composite materials didn't have a very good reputation, especially in the areas of cost, durability and appearance. Most of us thought "It just doesn't look good." or "It looks cheap."

Now, I must admit that if you use your common sense and look at the facts, composite decking materials will win hands down every time as the material of choice. It's hard to let go of tradition sometimes, but you have to adapt to the better way when it is indeed better, not just "the new thing" to come along.

There are some undeniable negative aspects in using wood for these types of projects. Wood definitely needs to be protected one way or another, especially when exposed to the elements. Even if the wood has been pressure treated to make it more resistant to moisture damage, it will still need to be sealed or kept covered to diminish deterioration to any degree. A lot of time and money can be involved in re-sealing and maintaining the appearance of even high quality hard wood. Wood is pretty much prone to warping and twisting, often resulting in an unattractive appearance or even worse, unsafe conditions. The popular use of galvanized fasteners can also increase the unsafe factor due to the chemical reaction of the products used in the pressure treating process and the material used in the galvanizing process. In other words, the galvanized fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers, nails and screws) will break down, sometimes after just a couple of years.

Now, on the other hand, the improvements in the composite materials over the past decade or so have been impressive. A good variety of colors, density, and textures are now available, making it a challenge to come up with the final selection. The material are much more durable, and if you go with the better quality products, they are mildew resistant, more color fast (less fading), and have non-slip textures. The initial cost may be a bit more ranging usually 1.5 to 3 times more, but you have to keep in mind the money saved on maintenance, repair and safety. It's pretty hard to get a splinter in your foot or hand from a composite material! And last, but not least, no trees are cut down in the manufacturing of the composite materials although saw dust is combined with other materials in many composites..

So the bottom line is that I recommend that you go composite, go green.



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Welcome - about this blog

Hello !

First, I would like to welcome you and say thanks for dropping by. I am pretty much new to blogging and wanted to start a site that is focused mainly on the home. Anything to do with home projects, do it yourself projects, remodeling, interior decorating, cooking. appliances, tools, good deals on products for the home or just about anything that has to do with home life..

I will be posting articles , home product reviews and almost anything and everything pertaining to things "Around the House". Please feel free to contribute, any useful content will be welcomed. So check out the articles and I sincerely hope that you will find something useful in the information, tips and reviews that are presented with the homeowner in mind.